The take-back scam: an investigation into the take-back system for clothing

Many fast fashion brands offer their consumers take-back schemes to take back old clothes and supposedly give them a second life. With the help of hidden airtag trackers, the path of 21 items of clothing that were handed in in various European countries was traced. The results show a significant discrepancy between the promises made by the brands and the actual treatment of the clothing.

Four common patterns were identified in the analysis:

1. Downcycling or destruction: A significant proportion of the garments were destroyed or converted into inferior products, even though they were in good condition and would have been suitable for reuse.
   
2. Resale within Europe: Only a few items of clothing were actually resold within Europe, some of them to Ukraine, which could, however, exacerbate the waste problems there.
   
3. Lost in an endless loop: Many items remained stuck in warehouses or collection bins and were not reused or recycled as promised.
   
4. Shipped to Africa: Some garments were exported to Africa, where they ended up in landfills or were incinerated, further exacerbating the waste problem in these countries.

The analysis shows that these take-back systems often serve the image of the brands rather than actually contributing to solving waste problems. They also encourage further consumption through discounts and vouchers without tackling the problem of overproduction. The report calls for stricter legislative measures, including the introduction of extended producer responsibility and mandatory recycling targets, to reduce the fashion industry's impact on the environment.

You can download the analysis here: